Original post October 2018. Updated July 2020
I moved to New York City more than 20 years ago when I was single in my 20’s. I spent a fair amount of time in bars, at dance clubs and on the volleyball court. When I got married in my 30’s, my husband and I made a job out of eating our way through ALL of the Manhattan restaurants. No kidding – we kept a list!
A few years later, with small children, my goals shifted. We spent many long days playground hopping our way around town – we hit most of them. Now, my children are teens and we are experiencing yet another side of the many facets of this 13-mile island. I guess what I’m trying to say is we know our way around a bit here! Visiting NYC for the first time? The Beginners Guide to Visiting New York City is for you. If you have already seen the Statue of Liberty, the Empire State building and Times Square, check out our Expert Guide for some less popular spots.
Sleeping
The first question people ask about when coming to New York City is where to stay? My main advice is please do NOT follow the masses and stay in Midtown. There are so many terrific boutique hotels below Times Square and the subway system is super easy to get around. When staying in a downtown boutique hotel, you get the opportunity to feel what it’s really like to be a New Yorker.
Here are few of suggestions for mid priced boutique hotels in downtown and near public transport. The Duane Street Hotel in Tribeca on Duane Street & Church. My favorite thing is the bikes available to explore the many bike paths lining the island. The Highline Hotel in Chelsea is on 10th Ave and 21st Street. It’s amazing for an afternoon hot cocoa or cocktail after walking the High Line. The Ludlow Hotel on the Lower East Side (Ludlow near E. Houston) is great for it’s public space. Roaring fireplace, brick wall and leather sofas make it a great place to cozy up or work from home. The Arlo Hotel in Soho (Hudson and Broome) is my favorite place to spend an afternoon working on the computer. It’s also got the best roof deck for afternoon cocktails with a vies.
Eating
We are very aware how expensive things can be in NYC. It’s easy to find the top rated places online that also happen to be the most expensive. Our guide focuses on well regarded places with mid-range pricing that locals frequent. We totally understand how nice it is to plan an evening out at a nice restaurant in advance. But we find that, on the road, we often end up eating at any old place just because everyone is starving and tired. Any recommendations we make, take that into consideration. We target places locals love, that you don’t need to book 3 months in advance. Although we have listed a few of those for the person who likes to plan ahead.
A Sample NYC Beginners Itinerary
While you can experience this itinerary in any order, a lot of thought is given to timing and geography. The activities in each section are near one another and can reasonably be accomplished in the course of a day. Break this itinerary down into bits and pieces to incorporate into your own itinerary. Or just follow it step by step to get a real bite out of the Big Apple!
Day 1: Downtown New York City
Activities: Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island
We’ve got some heavy hitters today all within a few blocks of one another. In order to get it all in today, you will need to start early. In addition, you may need to cut one or two activities depending on your energy.
Start your day in lower Battery Park. Take the 1 train to South Ferry, 5 train Bowling Green, or R,W Train to Whitehall/South Ferry. Walk north in Battery park towards the ferry to Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island (reservations and advance tix recommended here). On your way through the park, ride the Sea Glass Carousel and check out the 2 war memorials.
The Statue of Liberty tour of the island is less than an hour. Any ferry ticket will get you on the island for Statue of Liberty and for Ellis Island. However, if you want to climb to the crown or pedastal, you will need to purchase additional tickets. Advance tickets are crucial, especially if you want to climb. I have heard even 2 months in advance is not enough time to get tickets to climb. In addition, leave more time than you think you need for screening, lines, and waiting for ferries as the crowds get pretty big. If you also want to explore Ellis Island, there is a self paced tour that will take 1-2 hours.
Afternoon Activities: Oculus, 9/11 Memorial, One World Observatory, Tribeca
When you get off the ferry on the way back, walk north along the water through beautiful Battery Park until you reach the North Cove and the World Financial Center (about a 30 minute walk). Here you can explore the Oculus for the ultimate upscale mall experience. Don’t miss your photo op in the Oculus which is the new World Trade Center transportation hub. Love it or hate it, the enormity of the space will awe you. Walking tours are available but I don’t think they are necessary. If you are hungry, the fancy little food court in the attached Brookfield Place has some good eats. We love Umami Burger and Mighty Quinn’s.
Make some time to reflect at the 9/11 Memorial so we never forget. Having experienced 9/11 first hand, I have not been interested in the 9/11 Museum on Greenwich St. However, many people tell me they felt it was a valuable experience. I would consider a trip to the top of the One World Observatory (the best part is the elevator ride!). We went on Christmas eve and it was a really fun experience. Best if timed in the evening. The big reveal of the NYC skyline is quite spectacular at night. Total distance 1.3 miles.
Head to Tribeca for dinner at one of the many amazing restaurants in this mecca to the stars. See our recs in Tribeca below.
Eat
In Battery Park: Gigino at Wagner Park . Near World Trade Center : Hudson Eats (the food court at Brookfield Place). In Tribeca (both on West Broadway): Tiny’s ,The Odeon or Thalassa on Franklin St.
Shop
Brookfield place and the Oculus are mostly major brands and an upscale mall. We like these boutiques in Tribeca. Playing Mantis on Franklin St for kids, Gloria Jewel on West Broadway & Warren for womenswear, Shinola on Franklin St. for American craftsmanship and leather goods and the Mysterious Book Shop on Warren St.
Day 2: Hudson Yards, Chelsea and Meatpacking District
Morning Activities – Hudson Yards, High Line
Start your day ahead of the crowds in the newest NYC neighborhood of the Hudson Yards. Take the A/C/E to 34th and walk west 3 blocks or take the 7 to Hudson Yards. Take in the soaring new landmark The Vessel which is just begging to be climbed. Tickets are free – get your timed entry at the base of the vessel or ahead of time here.
While you wait for your timed entry, wander the extravagant Hudson Yard mall. Don’t miss my favorite spot, Mercado Little Spain in the basement. When you are done exploring Hudson Yards head for the connecting High Line to continue your journey further downtown. This old elevated rail line has been turned into one of NYC’s nicest parks but be warned, it gets crowded.
PRO TIP: avoid weekends – hours are 7am – 10pm. Explore this 1.3 mile elevated park carving your way through the forest of NYC’s latest architectural achievements and rotating art installations. Exit at Gansevoort St. in the heart of the meatpacking district. Total distance 1.8 miles.
While the High Line ends in the meatpacking district, there are a few places worth hopping down to street level along the way.
- If you have an active crowd, stop in at Chelsea Piers for a turn in the driving range or the batting cage. If it’s raining, try the bowling alley or rock climbing. Between 18th St.and 21st St. on West Side Highway.
- Grab a bite at a rustic favorite among locals Death Ave with inventive greek cuisine and a great backyard. 10th Ave & 28th St.
- On a cold day, the coffee bar and hot chocolate at the High Line Hotel can’t be beat. 10th Ave & 21st St.
Afternoon Activities – Meatpacking District, Chelsea Market
Though the meatpacking district is compact, its cobblestone streets are packed with swanky shops and high end restaurants and bars. Be sure to spend an hour or two in the Whitney Museum – New York’s newest and coolest museum. Even if you aren’t into the art, the space and the views from the outdoor terraces are worth the visit. After the museum, shop until your hearts content winding up and down the cobblestone streets of the Meatpacking District. Imagine what it’s like in the evening, when NYC’s fast crowd is teetering on the cobblestone in their 4″ heels rushing to the newest, hottest restaurant. For a more unique shopping experience, check out some of the boutiques in the old Nabisco warehouse, Chelsea Market. Enter on 9th or 10th Ave at 15th st.
Have Dinner or cocktails in Meatpacking District to round out the day. Some local faves include Bubby’s Pie Company (Gansevoort & Washington) for excellent pie and fried chicken. Or Dos Caminos (14th & 9th Ave) for Mexican and excellent central outdoor seating. In my opinion a table inside isn’t worth it. We also love The Standard Biergarten (Gansevoort & Washington) for traditional beer, pretzels and rabble rousing. And Santina for coastal Mediterranean. For a quick meal, try the Gansevoort Market (14th & Hudson). These are all mid priced restaurants we regularly haunt.
You can’t throw a stone in the Meatpacking District without hitting a restaurant that will set you back a bit. For a splurge, I love The Standard Grill , or the Top of the Standard for cocktails with sweeping views. 13th St. & Washington. Also, the mega palace of Buddakan (16th St & 9th Ave) for Asian Fusion cuisine.. Both will require advance reservations.
Day 3: Grand Central Station To Greenwich Village
Morning Activities – Grand Central, Empire State Building, New York Public Library
Start your day in Grand Central Terminal (42nd & Park Ave – most subways stop here – 4,5,6,7,S). Take a look at the constellation ceiling and try out the whispering wall. Or try this Secrets of Grand Central Tour. Pop into the New York Transit Museum Store for some unique NYC mementos .
Then walk west on 42nd St to 5th Ave. Turn south on 5th Ave and greet the lions at the NY Public Library, Patience and Fortitude. Climb the steps to see the real Winnie the Pooh inside. Continue down 5th Ave to the Empire State Building at 34th st (get tix in advance here). Get your Sleepless in Seattle moment at the top.
Continue walking south on 5th Ave., passing through Madison Square Park and Flatiron at 23rd St. Snap a pic of the iron shaped building that gives this neighborhood its name (at 175 5th Ave). Madison Square park almost always has a cool art installation. Don’t miss exploring the Lego store or Eataly. You may want to stop here for lunch (see “Eat” below for suggestions).
Afternoon Activities – Madison Square Park, Flatiron and Greenwich Village
After lunch hop over to Broadway and continue walking south towards Union Square. Broadway has some fun and quirky shops along the way (see “Shop” below). When you arrive in Union Square, take a minute to get a little bit of anarchy in your life. This is where the hippies and college kids trying to change the world hang out.
At the bottom of Union Square Park, cross over to University or 5th Ave. and continue moving south towards Washington Square Park. The arch at 5th Ave just below 8th Street is a wonderful way to enter the park. You are now in NYU territory – enjoy the University surroundings. Dinner suggestions in Greenwich Village listed below in “Eat”. Total distance 2.0 miles.
Shop
Flying Tiger Copenhagen (Broadway and 21st) is a great shop for things you didn’t know you needed. Fish’s Eddy (Broadway & 19th) is perfect for kitsch and political fodder. Don’t miss ABC Carpet & Home – a 6 story posh home decor store (Broadway & 18th).
Eat
- In Flatiron: Eataly – locals prefer gathering yummy provisions and taking them to Madison Square Park to picnic. Or if it’s cold or raining eat at one of the restaurants inside Eataly. Serra on the roof, changes its decor for the season. For a quick bite of delicious burgers and shakes, try the original Shake Shack in the Madison Square park.
- In Greenwich Village: Otto Enoteca, at One 5th Ave, is a trendy gourmet pizza and wine bar popular with the locals. A “quick bite” place we love is Grey Dog at 90 University Place. Two celeb hot spots are Minetta Tavern (French) between W. 3rd St. and Bleecker near Macdougal. Or Bar Pitti (Italian) on 6th Ave between Bleecker and W. Houston. On Prince St. between MacDougal and Thompson you have a plethora of good places, including Shuka (Mediterranean), The Dutch (American), Blue Ribbon Sushi (Japanese), and Raoul’s (French bistro). Note that we try to suggest places you can walk into without a reservation. However, to be sure, we recommend calling ahead when you can – especially on weekends.
Day 4: Uptown Museums and Central Park
Morning Activities – Museum Mile
Start your day on most concentrated area of museums in NYC – Museum Mile. It runs along tree lined Central Park on 5th Ave between 82nd and 110th St. Note some museums are closed on Mondays. Take the 6 train to 103rd Street and walk to 5th Ave. Traveling south from 103rd, you can pick from several terrific NYC Museums along the way. Museo del Barrio (at 104th), Museum of the City of NY (at 103rd), Jewish Museum (at 92nd), Cooper Hewitt (at 91st), National Academy (at 89th), the Guggenheim (at 88th), the Neue Galerie (at 86th), The Met (from 86th to 82nd), the Met Breuer (on Madison & 75th) and The Frick Collection (at 71st). Total distance 1.8 miles.
Eat
After a full morning of culture, grab lunch at Cafe Sabarsky in the Neue Galerie (old school Viennese), or Le Charlot (69th & Madison). Or better yet, on a nice day gather food to bring to Central Park at Via Quadronno (73rd & Madison) or Bel Ami (68th & Madison).
Afternoon Activities – Central Park
Spend the afternoon exploring the wonders of Central Park. This park covers 50 city blocks and is vast enough that navigation, once inside, is a bit challenging. This guide will get you through the can’t- miss highlights. If you’ve got young kids in tow, your goals may be different than if you are traveling without. I’ll touch on both.
Think of Central Park as divided into 4 sections spanning the entire width of the park from East to West and 1/4th of the park from North to South. Realistically, covering the entire park in one visit will be next to impossible. I advise targeting two of the 1/4 sections allowing for covering half of the park in one afternoon. You can always cover the other two sections on your next visit to NYC.
Between 59th and 65th Street (From Central Park West to 5th Ave.)
Since you finished the morning at Museum Mile, let’s start our Central Park tour on the east side. Highlights here include the Central Park Zoo and the Wollman Rink for ice skating in winter and carnival in summer. In addition, the Gapstow bridge is a great photo moment. They are all very close to one another and worth wandering through. Heading towards the west side, you will find the Central Park Carousel, and Heckscher Playground which has lots of fun climbing rocks as well as the requisite playground equipment. Including the zoo, this area can be done in 2-3 hours. Without a stop at the zoo, 90 minutes.
Between 65th Street and 79th street (from Central Park West to 5th Ave)
.This area covers the most ground. From the west side, right above 65th is the Sheep Meadow. A great place to throw a frisbee or have lunch. Moving back east look for the Balto statue. He was the famous Siberian husky who led his dog sled team from Anchorage to Nome. They carried diptheria antitoxins to fight an outbreak in Nome, Alaska.
If Balto doesn’t do anything for you, head north to the top of the Sheep Meadow for a look at the John Lennon Memorial – Strawberry Field. Just across the street is the famous Dakota building. The former residence of John Lennon and site of his tragic death. Yoko Ono still lives there.
Next work towards the center of the park and experience the beautiful Bethesda Fountain. It will be hard to not imagine you are somewhere in Europe. On the opposite side of the lake, have a drink at the Loeb Central Park Boathouse Outdoor Bar. For the ultimate romantic experience, rent rowboats in the Lake and row under the famous Bow Bridge.
North of the lake is the Ramble, 38 acres of woodsy walking paths that are fun to explore. Back on the east side, do a little storybook scavenger hunt. The winners will find both the Alice in Wonderland statue, and the Hans Christian Anderson Monuments. Including a stroll in the Ramble, you can see all of this in 2 hours.
Between 79th street and 97th street (from Central Park West to 5th Ave)
While this area quite large, the reservoir smack in the middle makes it easier to navigate and lovely to stroll around. See where NYC laces up its running shoes take some beautiful shots of the reservoir with the NYC skyline in the background. The whole loop is 1.58 miles if you are so inclined.
Belvedere Castle, Turtle Pond, the Swiss Cottage Marionette Theater and the Delacorte Theater all very close to one another. Belvedere translates to “beautiful view” in Italian and this castle delivers just that. Especially from the top of the winding staircase inside. At the foot of the castle don’t miss Turtle Pond. Home to 5 types of turtles that live there year round. North of Turtle Pond, is the open air amphitheater loved by Shakespeare fans.
Delacorte Theater hosts Shakespeare in the Park every summer and would be an evening to remember if you could get tickets. The free and coveted tickets are distributed on the day of the performance and New Yorkers line up as early as 6am for a noon distribution. Get the inside scoop on how to get tix here. The Marionette Theater occasionally runs cute little Swedish Marionette shows in the mornings and might be fun if you are in the area.
Between 97th street and 110th street (from Central Park West to 5th Ave)
The least visited section of Central Park, this area has some not to miss highlights as well. On the West side near 102nd street is The Pool, a tranquil lake ringed by weeping willows and breathtaking foliage. On the other side of the Pool is a rustic stone arch called the Glen Span Arch. The arch leads directly to the North Woods and the Ravine which houses several waterfalls. To the east side is the parks only formal garden, the Conservatory Garden. A 6 acre formal garden with a beautiful grand entrance at 5th Ave and 105th street. The Meer (dutch for lake) is in the northeast corner of the park and is home to the Pumpkin Flotilla at Halloween.
Day 5: My Downtown Cupcake tour and Times Square
Morning Activities- Cupcakes in Tribeca and West Village
Start day 5 with a big appetite and bit of fun doing my Downtown Cupcake Tour. The tour begins in Tribeca where you can taste test 3 great cupcake shops within a few blocks of one another. To arrive, take any train to Chambers St. Begin your cupcake fest at Duane Park Patisserie at 179 Duane St.(also try the Ring Ding Bar here!), then walk to Baked TriBeCa at 279 Church St, and Billy’s bakery at 75 Franklin st. All quick strolls to one another.
Right outside of Baked, you can hop on the A/C train at Canal st and take it to west 4th street in Greenwich Village for your next stop. Exit at the south end of the train (4th street side) and make your way to Molly’s cupcakes at Bleecker & 6th. Back out on 7th ave, hop back onto Bleecker St and walk north toward Bleecker St Playground for the famous Magnolia Bakery (401 Bleecker at W. 11th st). Enjoy your cupcake on Bleecker Street park right across the street. No need for lunch after this tour. Maybe back home for a nap!
Afternoon Activities – Times Square and Midtown
No trip to NYC is complete without a few hours in the belly of the beast – midtown and Times Square. Today we shall spend our afternoon there but be prepared to deal with the crowds. Let’s start at Rockefeller Center which is basically the area between 5th & 6th Ave at 49th & 50th street. If you are in the city in December, the most obvious stop is the Christmas tree, ice rink and the light show at Saks on 5th Ave. Other options in Rockefeller Center include a spin on the city’s most famous ice rink. Or, a visit the Top of the Rock for a spectacular view. In addition, shop some of the biggest name stores in the world on 5th Ave, or do an NBC Studio Tour. Whatever organized activities you decide on in midtown, I recommend purchasing tickets in advance of your trip.
Our recommended points of interest in and around Rockefeller Plaza include St. Patricks Cathedral on 5th Ave and 50th, and the Museum of Modern Art on 53rd between 5th & 6th Ave. Design lovers shouldn’t miss the attached gift shop in the museum. The Lego Store and The American Girl Flagship are must see’s if you have kids under 13 in tow. While wandering the neighborhood, look for the LOVE sculpture (55th & 6th) and the HOPE sculpture (53rd & 7th), for a few fun photo ops.
The best way to see Broadway and Times Square is to plan for a Broadway show in the evening. Arrive early before the show to gawk at the lights in Times Square and enjoy a few photo ops on the stairs in Father Duffy Square on 47th and 7th Ave. Dinner in midtown is always harried and a bit crazy but can be part of the fun.
Pro tips:
- If you have not purchased advance tickets, more affordable tickets for really great shows can be found at either todaytix or TKTS. Download the app on your smart phone or stand in line at the TKTS booth in Times Square for reduced rate tickets. Note you have to choose from the ever changing board of available shows at the moment. Also, there are in person ticket booths that are far less crowded in South Street Seaport and Lincoln Center.
- As locals, we love to see the Holiday windows in December. Our secret is that we do them at 9am on a weekday when the shops are still closed. There are no lines and we can enjoy the windows at our leisure. We finish our morning enjoying brunch or tea at the Plaza.
Eat
For more upscale dining requiring advance reservations – DB Bistro Moderne (44th between 5th & 6th Ave) , STK Midtown (6th Ave between 42 & 43), Keen’s Steakhouse (36th between 5th & 6th Ave), or Rotisserie Georgette (60th between 5th & Madison). We adore a casual meal at Ellen’s Stardust Diner where the waitstaff spontaneously bursts into lively Broadway tunes. Broadway and 50th St. For casual, quick bites – City Kitchen (8th Ave between 44 & 45), the Halal Cart at 53rd & 6th, or Juniors Cheesecake (45th & Broadway)
Want more NYC? See also
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Halloween in NYC: It’s Not Just for the Young
This is great! Will share with visiting friends!
The only way to achieve happiness is to cherish what you have and forget what you don’t have